January 30 - Stanley, Falkland Islands / Islas Malvinas

Stanley is the capital and only true city in the Falkland Islands.  Stanley was occupied by Argentine troops for about ten weeks during the Falklands War in 1982.  The Argentines renamed the town Puerto Argentino, and although Spanish names for places in the Falklands were historically acceptor as alternatives, this one is considered to e extremely offensive by many islanders, demanding as it does that the city is Argentine.   It has however gained some support in Spanish speaking countries.   Stanley suffered considerable damage during the during the war, from both the Argentine occupation and the British naval shelling of the town, which killed three civilians.  After the British secured the high ground around the town the Argentines surrendered with no fighting in the town itself.  The beaches and land around it were heavily mined and some areas remain marked mine fields.  Since the Falklands War, Stanley has benefited from the growth of the fishing and tourism industries ion the Islands.  Stanley itself has developed greatly in that time, with the building of a large amount of residential housing, particularly to the east of the town center.   The city is now more than a third bigger than it was in 1982.   Gypsy Cove, known for its Magellanic penguins, and Cape Pembroke, the easternmost point of the Falklands, lie nearly.  Gypsy Cove is four miles from Stanley and can be reached by taxi or on foot.  Stanley is twinned with Whitby in North Yorkshire, United Kingdom.  Today, roughly one third of the town's residents are employed by the government and tourism is also a major source off employment.  On days when two or more large cruise ships dock in the town, tourists frequently outnumber the local residents.

Today would be a full and fairly rigorous day.  There was a gratis Ensemble Tour planned with Eric in the lead.   That means that all guests aboard who have an Ensemble travel agent could be included on this jaunt, or get a $200 per person ship's credit should they choose not to go.

After getting up at 6:00 a.m. and gathering in The Club by 6:45 a.m.,  we were on the first ship's tender to be brought ashore at Stanley.   We piled into 4-wheel drive vehicles - three Capurro's and Eric plus the driver, a local who's family emigrated from Scotland and have been in the Falklands for six generations.

Off we went - it was a bit of a dreary day, scattered sunshine, fairly cold, and a lot of wind.   Roads on our two hour trip out to see the King penguins began as fairly good, graduated to gravel, and then . . . well, I don't really know how to describe the road!   For the second hour, we traveled through rocky, muddy and furrowed peat bogs, bouncing around in the back seat, we three kept apologizing for crashing into each other, holding on for dear life, and looking ahead to utter a silent prayer when we saw the driving challenges.   The worst day at sea hadn't been this rough!  While being a passenger was a bit rough, would have welcomed some time at the steering wheel - reminded me of the Jeep Jamborees that Adolfo and I'd done years ago.

The countryside is dotted with "rock rivers" - formations of broken rock that cascade gracefully down the mountainsides.   Can't imagine how they got there!  Much of the natural rock on this island is quartzite, but doesn't seem to be of the quality that we have in our kitchens back home.

We stopped midway for a rest stop.   Decent facilities but then something really unique.  There was a "Bake Safe"!  Locals (hardly any) bake cookies, cakes and candies, put them into plastic containers, and place those containers into a box that is labelled "Bake Safe".  Passersby may nibble at their pleasure.   All that is asked is for the consumer to put some money into the bottle - whatever you think your nibble was worth.   As long as there is some revenue, then the baked goodies will continue.

We were finally at our destination.   Everywhere we looked there were animals - sheep, birds, Gentoo penguins, King penguins - all living in harmony.   The only predators would be the large birds flying overhead looking for unprotected penguin chicks.   The setting was really picturesque with large sloping green areas, sands and then finally the ocean glittering in the bright sun.

    

  



We walked among the penguins - so beautiful!   The Kings, especially, with their unique markings are picture perfect.   When viewing photos of these noble animals previously, my eyes had registered black, white, yellow, gold, and variations.  But there is little true black on them, except on the head.   The penguin backs are dark grey to silver grey, edged a bit in black.   The white is truly pristine, unlike the penguins of Antarctica who are always wallowing in their pink poop and mud.   With these penguins nesting on grass and having easy access to the water, they are beautifully clean!

John was certain that he wouldn't need a coat, but Sandi had packed the big orange wind breakers into a backpack, and when John finally turned blue, he did go back to the 4 X 4 to retrieve his jacket.   We had a lunch of sorts waiting for us in the vehicles which consisted of an apple, chips, chocolate bar, water and a sandwich of dubious origins - tuna salad, cabbage, parmesan cheese and a mystery sauce - we couldn't really discern what it was!   But, we were cold and hungry, so the food disappeared.

On our way to the beach we saw penguins who nest in sand tunnels.   Not certain whether they were Gentoos, but this photo of a chick is sweet.



Back to the ship on the same extremely bumpy road - we were tired and by this time were veterans smashing into each other.

Another beautiful sunset, and so to bed.