Gothenburg, Sweden - August 3 / Oslo, Norway - August 4
Gregarious, chilled-out Gothenburg (Goteborg) is the quintessential "second city"; understatedly hip and unexpectedly vibrant. Neoclassical architecture lines its tea-rattled streets, locals sun themselves aside canals, and there's always an interesting cultural air social event going on.
The city is eminently walkable. From Centralstationen in the north, retail-centric Ostra Hamngatan leads southeast across one of Gothenburg's 17th-century canals, through verdant Kungsparken (King's Park) to the city's boutique and upscale bar-lined "Avenyn" (Kungsportsavenyn) boulevard.
The waterfront abounds with all things nautical, from ships, aquariums and sea-related museums to the freshest fish. To the west, the Vasastan, Haga and Linne districts buzz with grassroots creativity and an appreciation for well-preserved history.
In reality, the waterfront where our ship was berthed wasn't very attractive. Had no events scheduled today so decided to rest my ankle for tomorrow in Oslo, where we have a 5-hour walking tour planned.
Those guests who did go ashore came back quickly and said that the town was not interesting - perhaps jaded - but I enjoyed my day on the ship. After a light lunch and a relaxing time out in the warm sun, went back to the suite to bring my blog up to date, a nap, and then got ready to meet Eric in the Thomas Keller Grill.
The TK Grill never fails to further my love of good food. There are some new things on the menu from our trip in January. Began with a beautiful wilted, warm, spinach salad - so delicious. Tried the Lobster Newburg - a different deconstructed presentation - and not at all rich. Of course, we had favorite sides of Mac and Cheese and Eggplant Parmesan - both really good. Eric finished with the quintessential Ice Cream Sundae, but I persevered and just ordered a bit of sorbet - so virtuous! Afraid that if I begin eating those decadent sundaes this early in the trip, none of my clothes will fit by next week!!
Lobster Newburg, Thomas Keller style
It's now the next day and I've had a reasonably good night of sleep. We have just docked in Oslo. It appears to have been raining through the night and things are a bit wet out. We will be walking through the city tasting and sipping our way through 4 to 5 hours.
Oslo's skyline might be crowded by cranes, but this rapidly growing urban metropolis is also one of the world's most overwhelmingly green cities. It has earned the honor of being names European Green Capital for 2019, via one of the lowest carbon footprints in the world, excellent and well-patronized public transport, and a real commitment to sustainable food production and green space. The city is blessed with a large number of bucolic parks, and the Ostofjord's waterways and islands are just minutes away from the center, as are the ski slopes and forests of Nordmarka.
Once known only for hotdogs and high prices, Oslo's culinary scene is currently enjoying a Neo Nordic moment in the sun, and has become a culinary destination in its own right. This delicious change takes in everything from the most northern three-Michelin starred restaurants in the world (Maaermo) to its deservedly hyped neighborhood coffee scene and fabulous fusion cuisine, to the celebration of traditional favorites such as peel-and-eat shrimp, and, yes, even "poise" (hot dogs). The city also has a penchant for sushi and pizza, both of which can now compete on the world stage.
Beautiful street in Oslo, near government buildings, and the Grand Hotel (on the right side of the street) where the winner of the Nobel Peace Prize is always a guest.
Oslo is a favorite city of mine. Adolfo and I have walked the city several times and always end up doing three favorite things - spending time in Vigeland Park which is full of stone sculptures showing the journey of man and representing the life's work of the artist, Vigeland; the Kon-Tiki Museum, and the Viking Museum that holds original Viking ships that have been unearthed from the shore mud where they were preserved for many long years. When last here, we were able to touch the satiny wood of the ships and I still remember that soft and smooth perfection in these beautiful ships.
Just in case I don't get to Vigeland Park today, have pulled some photos from the web.
Just in case I don't get to Vigeland Park today, have pulled some photos from the web.
Time to begin getting myself together so that I can meet the group at 10:00 a.m. More later . . .
Today was really tiring. Lots of walking up hill and down hill, over different style cobblestone streets which required planting my ankle with a bit of precision to take the pressure off. But it is now down!!
We began our walk near the pier where just across from the ship, sits a beautiful and very modern structure which is purported to be one of the largest venues for opera - didn't get whether or not this stat was of the world, or just of Norway. It was built to depict an iceberg slipping into the sea. Lots of white Italian marble, glass and metal on the outside, while on the inside, we were told that all the decor is of natural woods. The effect of the design and use of marble was really striking. This photo of the opera house was taken in color, though it appears to be black and white. The day was overcast and threatening rain.
We'd been instructed to eat as little as possible for breakfast because there would be lots of food today, and though there was hearty fare, it didn't begin soon enough. We were all ravenous as we made our first stop at a small restaurant where we would sample local foods. The portions were large, and the meal was served family-style.
Potatoes and Roasted Root Vegetables. Swedish Meatballs (mainly pork)
Sauces to go with different meats. Poached Salmon
For some reason I didn't get photos of the moose meat, nor the cooked peas some of which had been smushed. Their color was sort of a grey-green; not very pretty, but tasted okay. The moose meat was not at all appealing, either in taste or texture!!
Then we were off on foot once again, this time to a waffle restaurant. On the way we walked past Trinity Church, the largest Lutheran church in Oslo, and then further down the street, St. Olaf's, the only Catholic Church in Oslo. Do wish we'd had time to go in, but that was not on the tour.
Waffles were served two ways. Am hoping that Eric will have taken a photo of them because I didn't!! They are thin, sort of spongy in texture, and are served two ways. One way with a slice of a brown cheese in the center. The cheese is brown because of a caramelization of the whey - texture is different and taste is rather mild. The other waffle is served spread with fresh strawberry jam. The object is to put the cheese and the strawberry waffles together, cut them in half, roll they into a triangular form, wrap in a napkin and munch. Different, though tasty. In that particular combo, it tasted to me of jam and a mild peanut butter.
The next leg of our walk took us through an old cemetery where lay the remains of playwright Henrik Ibsen (The Doll House, etc.) and painter, Edvard Munch (The Scream).
When asked about the hammer on the tomb obelisk of Ibsen, the guide told us that was because Ibsen's plays depicting his view of life, often broke the dreams of those who saw his works.
The two photos above show the "tastes" at the last stop of our walking tour. Sausage made from moose, whale and reindeer (all way too salty!), traditional lingonberry jam, smoked salmon, smoked whale, and an assortment of cheeses, one of which was so awful, had trouble swallowing it without barfing! Thank goodness, I'd only taken a very small taste.
We tasted locally brewed beers, the one of the right having a finish of strawberry, which was best for my palate, and then we finished with a small taste of Aquavit - yum!
Slept a bunch on my return from the tour, had dinner of Caesar salad with chicken and a glass of wine in my suite. Watched the movie "Pavarotti" which was wonderful, sang along the arias that I knew, and then slept some more!!
Today was really tiring. Lots of walking up hill and down hill, over different style cobblestone streets which required planting my ankle with a bit of precision to take the pressure off. But it is now down!!
We began our walk near the pier where just across from the ship, sits a beautiful and very modern structure which is purported to be one of the largest venues for opera - didn't get whether or not this stat was of the world, or just of Norway. It was built to depict an iceberg slipping into the sea. Lots of white Italian marble, glass and metal on the outside, while on the inside, we were told that all the decor is of natural woods. The effect of the design and use of marble was really striking. This photo of the opera house was taken in color, though it appears to be black and white. The day was overcast and threatening rain.
We'd been instructed to eat as little as possible for breakfast because there would be lots of food today, and though there was hearty fare, it didn't begin soon enough. We were all ravenous as we made our first stop at a small restaurant where we would sample local foods. The portions were large, and the meal was served family-style.
Potatoes and Roasted Root Vegetables. Swedish Meatballs (mainly pork)
Sauces to go with different meats. Poached Salmon
For some reason I didn't get photos of the moose meat, nor the cooked peas some of which had been smushed. Their color was sort of a grey-green; not very pretty, but tasted okay. The moose meat was not at all appealing, either in taste or texture!!
Then we were off on foot once again, this time to a waffle restaurant. On the way we walked past Trinity Church, the largest Lutheran church in Oslo, and then further down the street, St. Olaf's, the only Catholic Church in Oslo. Do wish we'd had time to go in, but that was not on the tour.
Trinity Lutheran Church with St Olaf's Catholic Church in the background
Waffles were served two ways. Am hoping that Eric will have taken a photo of them because I didn't!! They are thin, sort of spongy in texture, and are served two ways. One way with a slice of a brown cheese in the center. The cheese is brown because of a caramelization of the whey - texture is different and taste is rather mild. The other waffle is served spread with fresh strawberry jam. The object is to put the cheese and the strawberry waffles together, cut them in half, roll they into a triangular form, wrap in a napkin and munch. Different, though tasty. In that particular combo, it tasted to me of jam and a mild peanut butter.
The next leg of our walk took us through an old cemetery where lay the remains of playwright Henrik Ibsen (The Doll House, etc.) and painter, Edvard Munch (The Scream).
When asked about the hammer on the tomb obelisk of Ibsen, the guide told us that was because Ibsen's plays depicting his view of life, often broke the dreams of those who saw his works.
These beautiful and delicate flowers are Wild Carrot
We walked the oldest street in Oslo, where it is purported that the wooden houses there are the oldest in Oslo. The mustard and dark red house in the photo is valued at $1.3M!!
The two photos above show the "tastes" at the last stop of our walking tour. Sausage made from moose, whale and reindeer (all way too salty!), traditional lingonberry jam, smoked salmon, smoked whale, and an assortment of cheeses, one of which was so awful, had trouble swallowing it without barfing! Thank goodness, I'd only taken a very small taste.
We tasted locally brewed beers, the one of the right having a finish of strawberry, which was best for my palate, and then we finished with a small taste of Aquavit - yum!
Slept a bunch on my return from the tour, had dinner of Caesar salad with chicken and a glass of wine in my suite. Watched the movie "Pavarotti" which was wonderful, sang along the arias that I knew, and then slept some more!!
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