Saturday, November 9, 2019 - Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe

Saturday, November 9, 2019 - Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe


Lying 10 km off Guadeloupe, unhurried Terre-de-Haut is the largest of the eight small islands that make up Les Saintes and feels like a slice of southern France transported to the Caribbean.  Lots of English is spoken here thanks to a big international sailing scene, and it's definitely the most cosmopolitan of Guadeloupe's outlying islands.  Divers love its waters for their good visibility and healthy reefs.  Since Terre-de-Haut was too hilly and dry for sugar plantations, slavery never took hold here.   Consequently, older islanders can trace their roots to the early seafaring Norman and Breton colonists, and many locals have light skin and blond or red hair.  Home to most of the island's residents, Bourg des Saintes is a picturesque village with a decidedly Norman accent.  Its narrow streets are lined with whitewashed red-roofed houses with shuttered windows and yards of flowering hibiscus.

 Prior to beginning today's blog, have to relate a funny story from last evening.   Gervaise and I went to the show - Seabourn Singers and Dancers in a tribute to Stevie Wonder.  The show was one of the best ever - these kids on board are phenomenal!!!

 While we were waiting for the show to begin, people began filing into the Grand Salon to find seats that would give them good views - this can be difficult because of posts that are strategically placed to support the ceiling - structurally sound, I guess - but often in one's way when trying to see a show!

 In front of us were two men and a woman, busily chatting.  The gentleman next to the empty seat had his right hand for balance on that empty seat.   A woman came in and literally fell into her seat, sat right on his hand - immediately jumped up!!!   The man turned red, covered his face with his hands - we all laughed because you couldn't see this without laughing.   Couple next to us also started to laugh.   Perhaps it doesn't sound too funny in my writing but it was!  When all had settled down, the husband of the wife who sat on the male hand came to join her.   He also fell into the seat next to her, but landed half on her and half on the empty seat - we all began to laugh once again!    The woman next to me uttered - "a match made in heaven"!  Of course, that started us off again!
  
                      Frangipani

 We got up early, ready for our two-hour tour up to Fort Napoleon.   Tendered into shore, we were met by one of the best guides I've ever had - Jean - he was articulate, use of language really good, charming and knowledgable.   We climbed into vans (two) and drove up the hill, a single-lane, twisty road shared by pedestrians, motor scooters, bicycles and golf carts . . . and . . . the vans.   Half way up we parked the van, got out and proceeded to trek up the hill to the Fort.   Learned so much today, and it's all a jumble, so if you wish to learn more, please do Google!!!   The influences of many cultures coming together in this place make for a rich diversity of languages, culture and food.   Primary language is French - then Creole and English - maybe African.

 We climbed through the cactus gardens, in and out of old stone rooms, up and down stairs. Though a good tour, am certain that we missed some things because we were always looking where we were planting our feet.   Christopher Columbus plays a huge part in the "discovery" of this island and seems quite revered in this community.
      

  
Really old sewing sewing machines.              "New Fangled" kitchen implements of the day!

 On the way down, we once again entered the vans, but stopped just short of the main street that runs along the waterfront, and entered a beautiful old Catholic Church - Parish of Notre Dame de l'Assomption.  The stations of the cross are all the beautiful blue and white ceramic of Della Robbia.  There is a pretty statue of the Blessed Mother.   On each August 15, Feast of the Assumption, the statue is set into a boat, carried up the hill to the cross on the hillside.   Prayers are said for all fisherman, both alive and dead. The cross appears to watch over the sea and those who fish now.   Am wondering if the cross on the hillside in  St. Barth's has a similar meaning?
  

Salt of the Earth - Light of the World

In several places where we went to lookouts to see the various views, there were chickens wandering around, not at all bothered by the hordes of people coming into their territory.
     

 Weather today was hot and steamy, and now it is pouring rain.   The skies have darkened and it looks as though more rain is on the way.   Glad we got back prior to the skies opening up!

 Extraordinary views today from Fort Napoleon!

  



We are truly tuckered out from our day out in the hot, hot sun and humid weather!  Rather than go to a show that we'd looked forward to this week, we are opting for an early night, after a Paella dinner in the Colonnade.

Good Night - Sweet Dreams . . . .

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