Sunday, November 10, 2019 - Fort-de-France, Martinique

Sunday, November 10, 2019 - Fort-de-France, Martinique

Fort-de-France, city and capital of the French overseas department and region of Martinique, in the West Indies.   It lies on the west coast of the island of Martinique, at the northern entrance to the large Fort-d-France Bay, at the mouth of the Madame River.  The city occupies a narrow plain between the hills and the sea but is accessible by road from all parts of the island.  Formerly called Fort-Royal, it has been Martinique's capital since 1680.  Until 1918, when its commercial growth began, Fort-de-France has an inadequate water supply, was partly surrounded by swamps and was notorious for yellow fever.  In 1839 it was partially destroyed bye an earthquake and in 1890 by fire.   The swamps have now been drained, and extensive suburbs have spread, particularly eastward across the Monsieur River toward Le Lamentin.  Fort-de-France is Martinique's largest town, chief port and busiest commercial centre.  It has long sheltered the French fleet in the West Indies.  Sugarcane, cacao and rum are exported from here.  Savane, a Central Park, has a statue of the comfort of Napoleon I and Empress Josephine, who was born at Trois-Ilets on the south side of the bay.

The photo above is not a black and white photo!   Skies were very threatening.  It had rained through the night and was still sprinkling - we were hopeful that it would soon clear.    We were slated to meet our car and driver which we'd booked for four hours.   Though there was much to see we felt it best to let the guide do her thing, so our only request was to go to the Catholic Church in the hope of going to Mass.

As we left the ship, the wind howled, the rain came down in buckets, and in our cotton / linen clothing knew we would get soaked.   Though they were handing out plastic ponchos at the gangway, they were very flimsy.   We watched them get blown about the bodies of people, while the rain found its way under the poncho!   A bit of walk to our van, so we were happy to see bicyclists towing a two seater conveyance.   Gervaise and I hopped in.   Unfortunately, the rain was blowing sideways, coming from the open front of the conveyance.  By the time we got to the end of the pier - we, too, were soaked, just like everyone else.

We'd soon met our driver/guide, Sylvia, otherwise known as "Sylvia, the RastaDriver"!  Though her English was a bit difficult, her heart was pure gold.   We got on famously, and by the end of the trip would be great friends - in fact she cried when we returned to the ship!!

Soaked to the skin, but laughing like maniacs!   Did have a pashmina shawl in my tote bag, which I wrapped around me.  It absorbed so much water from my clothing I began to smell like a wet dog!!!

Our first stop was Fort-de-France Cathedral - St. Louis.  A beautiful church, but Mass wouldn't begin for an hour.    So we lit candles, took photos, enjoyed watching the people arriving early for Mass.

     

  

  

Lit a big candle for a good friend who will be visiting neuro oncology at UCSF this coming Wednesday, and a series of smaller ones for friends and family.   Then noticed that a lot of men were coming into the church with their suit jackets adorned with all sorts of military medals.   In Martinique, Armistice or Veteran's Day is a national holiday.  Today's 10:30 Mass will be a celebration in remembrance for all veterans, both living and dead.  The young woman above is our driver/guide, Sylvia, the RastaDriver!!

We began our island trek with Sylvia pointing out library, post office, etc.   We then turned off onto a red, dirt road - filled with mud from the rains.   After about a mile we came upon an artist colony with little shops filled with all sorts of pottery, glassware, sea shells, perfumed soap, and more.   After about 45 minutes of wandering and picking up some little things, we continued our journey.  

We'd left it up to Syvia as to where she would take us.   Her choice was incredible as we spent most of our time at Villages de Memoire et d'Histoire.  There is so much history here which includes indigenous tribes, Africans, Chinese, and more.  There is almost too much for me to relate, so, although the website is mostly in French, am including it here:  www.lasavanedesesclaves.fr

The slave trade in Martinique began a long time before that in the United States, and they were emancipated in 1680 - quite a while before Lincoln came along to emancipate those slaves in our country.

The owner and creator of this property is Martinique.  His photo, with Sylvia, is below.  When he envisioned La Savane, and the different cultures that make up Martinique, he put each piece of history in the hands of those whose descendants had lived it.   Each representation of a particular culture is created by one of that culture.

  

    

Incredible gardens and flowers galore!!

      

            

             

Today was a very special day and one that we will long remember.   After a tearful goodbye, we left Sylvia to return to the ship, have a rest, and a rib dinner in the Colonnade, a la Thomas Keller, followed by Seabourn Singers and Dancers presenting another musical extravaganza, and so to bed ...